Bordeaux

France's Atlantic south-west, where kosher runs at classified châteaux have become an established practice.

Bordeaux is built around the Gironde estuary and its two rivers. Gravel soils on the left bank favour Cabernet Sauvignon, clay and limestone on the right bank favour Merlot, and the 1855 classification still orders the châteaux of the Médoc.

Bordeaux shows the kosher run model at its most prestigious. Château Léoville Poyferré in Saint-Julien has made a kosher cuvée since 1999, Château Lascombes in Margaux since 2015, and Château Pontet-Canet has a dedicated small cellar for its kosher wine; Château Cos d'Estournel has announced its first kosher cuvée from the 2025 vintage.

The practical detail is instructive. At Léoville Poyferré, for example, the ends of rows, which ripen a little later, are left for the kosher harvest; the lot is then vinified by a separate crew in its own barrels and bottled as a small, clearly separated batch. It is the Montsant logic applied to a classified growth.

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